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The Enko Legend
There is a legend that connect my hamlet, Shimonohara, with the mountain temple Takano-Ji, but before I tell you the story I must introduce the main character, Enko. Enko is the local name for a strange creature found only in Japan known mostly by the name of Kappa. Kappas are aquatic creatures that live in rivers, streams, springs, ponds, and irrigation ditches all over Japan, though they can also survive on dry land. They are generally about 3 to 4 feet tall, with green scaly skin, webbed feet, and a shell, similar to a turtles, on its back. In many ways it looks remarkably like a Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtle (remember them?). Perhaps its strangest feature is its head, which has a bowl-shaped cavity on top surrounded by a ring of spiky hair. When out and about on dry land, this cavity must remain filled with water or else the Kappa becomes seriously weakened. Kappa is an ardent sumo wrestling fan, and will eagerly challenge any solitary traveller it encounters to a bout. The best strategy therefore if encountering a Kappa is to bow deeply. When the Kappa returns the bow the water spills out of the cavity and he become too weak to fight. Kappa is an omnivore, and particularly likes horses and small children, which it will drag into the water before sucking out the innerds ( through an orifice not in the victims head!!!) but most of all Kappa loves cucumbers, there is even a type of sushi made with cucumbers, kappamaki , named after him. Parents whose children are about to swim in a pond or river will inscribe the childs name on a cucumber and throw it into the water in the belief that this will placate the Kappa and protect the child. Kappa is not purely malevolent, and as the following story illustrates, sometimes helps humans, and therefore is more akin to an Imp or Trickster than a monster. Now for the story..... Shimonohara is situated on the north bank of the Gonokawa river where it makes a sharp bend. There was a whirlpool at the bend, known as the "7 day whirlpool" because if your boat was sucked in, it took 7 days to row yourself out. About 500 years ago there used to be a temple, Saikan-Ji, right above the bend. One year there was a series of typhoons and storms that caused a landslide and the temple slid into the river. Most of the temple, made of wood, floated downstream, but the huge bronze bell dropped straight down to the bottom of the whirlpool landing right outside Kappas home. Kappa was obviously a little shocked, especially as he had a morbid fear of metal things, but as he examined the bell he realized it was no ordinary bell, that it was in some way special. After pondering the situation for a while he decided that the bell should be returned to the land, and so he decided to take it to Takano-Ji temple in the mountains about 15 kilometeres to the north. For the journey he transformed himself to appear as Benke, an historical figure known for his strength, somewhat akin to Little John of Robin Hood fame. After struggling for many hours over the steep mountains he finally arrived at Takano-Ji in a severely weakened state and then, to his dismay, he saw the 140 steps that lead up to the temple proper. He lay the bell down on a large flat rock next to the gate and rested before struggling up the steps. Once at the top the surprised priest came out to greet him and offered him some tea, but the Enko politely refused, asking instead for some water. When the priest brought the water, Enko immediately pored it over his head to revive himself and promptly transformed himself back to his more familiar for. The priest was surprised, to say the least, and fell over backwards. Now revived Enko quickly departed and made his way back home.
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